Often it's not until after you've come back from your "Tourist Excursion" that you remember that you've a considerable responsibility as a tourist in how you distribute your spend, as it not only has economic impact but also a moral one. We unfortunately only realized this too late as we drove away from what sounded like a magical early morning experience but instead turned out to be an unwitting contribution to the sad exploitation and humiliation of one the earth's most splendid creatures.
It is hard to think of a more awe inspiring and majestic animal than an elephant and being in their presence leaves one with a uniquely privileged feeling. Quite emotionally intelligent in their dealings with each other, we are told, elephants have always held a special place in our hearts and minds. No where more so of course than in India where they are revered as a god - the great Ganesh, god of fortune, providence and good luck. It is for this reason that their treatment at our eventual destination early one morning is so perplexing, and angering.
My last experience in close proximity to an elephant was in Nepal 15 years ago where I am sad to say I rode on the back of one through the jungle on a brief "Tourist Excusion" in the Chitwan National Park. The guilt-edged residue of that day clearly had not left enough of a mark on me it seems to inform my decision around this engagement. However, I did vividly remember the awesome power of the animal as I watched it tear down a tree in a single movement. (Speaking of movements, being witness to some of his bolidy functions was equally surprising!)
On this occasion we were to watch elephants at a Training Centre at Kodanad bathe, and perhaps even take part in the ritual. However "training centre" did not accurately describe the facility, which put me in mind of a animal-loving atmosphere staffed by caring volunteers and enthusiasts. It was instead more of a drill camp where these marvelous creatures in captivity were cruelly it seemed schooled in the duties of a captive animal. Very little carrot was used in their education as far as we could see. It was all stick.
Chains are never a lifestyle choice and so whenever you see an animal in chains, it acts as an icon of its imprisonment. These animals we're bound in chains and rope and denied any freedom of movement outside the commands of their handlers. And that was part of the considerable difficulty of this: this fine, majestic creature under the strict control of two fairly portly, seemingly unsophisticated gentlemen who seemed intent on using their control of the animal to command humiliating tricks for the benefit of tourist in order to line their own (not the facility's) pockets.
The supposedly enjoyable and relaxing bath we thought we had come to see was another example of their denial of freedom. They were scrubbed by a scrubbing brush and unable to move outside of what was required to enable to cleaning. To underline this, he was forced to keep his trunk tucked neatly over his tusk (as pictured). The only really pleasant part of the visit was when his handlers went off to wash themselves in the river and the elephant was (relatively) free to wash himself how he wanted - by skillfully employing that most unique cleaning tool of his. This seemed like his only true moment of freedom to be himself.
His handlers commanded every other movement with unfriendly sounding shouts and the use of a wooden stick, and another one with a metal tip for harsher punishment. This animal seemed beaten; both physically on many an occasion, but also spiritually. There was stoic resignation in his demeanor but as he washed I almost wished he would make a dash for freedom while his handlers turned their back. The beauty and wonder of his form and presence was juxtaposed by the sheer sadness of the scene. The only thing more conflicted was the sight of the babies, so cute and innocent but not yet fully initiated into their "training program".
I was left with the questions: is there anything we really need to train an elephant to do that we can't do another way? Do we need to ride them to enjoy their company? Is it not time that we ennobled ourselves by truly setting this wonderful animal free, everywhere? Can we not secure swathes of national park for them and see them free to roam their own natural habitat? Is the elephant not the next whale?